Lebanese delights

Despite the opulence of our cuisine, Egyptians favor its Lebanese counterpart for its lightness and unique flavors. Recently two new, very different additions have graced Cairenes with Lebanese dishes and innovative recipes: Ayadina in Heliopolis and Taboon in Zamalek.

In the middle of a quiet residential street in the heart of Heliopolis lies Ayadina (Arabic for “our hands”), a cozy tavern-like restaurant. Two little windows and a blue wooden door welcome guests, followed by a friendly waitress. The atmosphere is oriental. Brass chandeliers adorn the ceilings, while fuchsia and light blue baroque armchairs have a modern air, enveloped in the warm tunes of Lebanese singer Ziyad al-Rahbani and Fairouz’s angelic voice.

Regardless of what they order, guests are welcomed with a basket of fresh vegetables and a savoury plate of dips — sour cream, hummus, and the best of them all, the heavenly mix of olive oil and oriental spices that Egyptians know as “doq”s. Its singular flavor awakens the taste buds for the coming feast.

The vermicelli soup is perfect — light and appetizing. Fried vermicelli added a pleasant zest to the taste. The cold vines leaves are the best I have tasted: correctly cooked, juicy, and generously soaked in a savory mix of olive oil and lemon juice.

Halfway through the hors d’hoeuvres and dips we are almost full, but we struggle on. The ‘arrayes (meat pastries) are good, well-cooked, and generously stuffed with well-seasoned minced meat. The agreeable sting of sumaq, the Levant's commonest spice, is lightly balanced with the mildness of the dough. The fattoush (bread and vegetable salad) is a must: watery lettuce, cucumber, and sweet tomatoes complement the sumaq zing and pomegranate molasses. The mahshi (stuffed vegetables) is the one flaw: the tomato sauce on top is undercooked and has a disagreeable acidity.

The service is impeccable and we are offered a cold, refreshing plate of watermelon compliments of the restaurant. The prices are on the high side, an average of LE150-200 per person for a full course meal. But the spectacular meal is worth every dime.

Over in the centre of town, in radiant and stylish Zamalek, Taboon is the latest take-out joint for Lebanese food. The place is tiny and the setting humble — a few simple tables and chairs in a kitchen-like room with walls covered in plain white tiles. Unlike Ayadina, Toboon's proposition is not so much to reproduce a Lebanese atmosphere but experiment with Lebanese cuisine.

The menu is concise yet comprehensive. All the dishes appeal, especially the mostly light and delightful appetizers. The fattoush definitely wins on the salad front; the vegetables are fresh with the addition of red cabbage, not a usual ingredient but rather an intelligent improvisation from the chef. Taboon also adds its little touch to the seasoning, using garlic and pomegranate molasses. The mixture is a success and the salad tastes different, succulent, and strong.

Taboon’s signature appetizer is batata harra (spicy potatoes), fried potatoes cut in cubes seasoned with chili and garlic. It is tasty and light and the punch of the chili is countered by the mildness and softness of the potatoes.

The sandwich corner has four options: meat shawerma, chicken shawerma, kofta, and shoaaf (grilled kebab with hummus and pickles). The kofta is impeccable. The meat is tasty and complimented with seasoned tomato cubes and parsley to accentuate the taste, all wrapped in Lebanese bread. The shawerma is good, especially the chicken one. Pieces of pickled cucumber and tomeya (garlic paste) bring the flavors out.

The mezze are also excellent, especially the cold vine leaves and tomeya; the vines leaves are nicely seasoned with lemon juice and olive oil and the tomeya is mild and pleasant.

The prices are reasonable, falling within the range of LE18 to 22 for salads and appetizers. Main dishes and grills are between LE40 and 50. Taboon is definitely recommended, but only for takeout or home delivery. The service is efficient and home delivery fast.

Ayadina is by far the best Lebanese in Cairo. It is as good as Tamara's. It is real Lebanese, not the Egyptianized version you usually eat in Taboula or any other Lebanese place in town. As for Taboon, the quality is very good for a take-out place and the service is super fast. What makes it better than other take-out places in Zamalek is that it actually delivers to Zamalek, Garden City, Dokki, and Mohandesseen.

Ayadina

3 Cleopatra Street, Korba, Heliopolis.

01023331599, 0222909103

Taboon

5 Aboul Feda Street, Om Kalthoum Hotel

01012228815, 0227372552